My Trip to Mata VaishnoDevi Shrine

MY TRIP TO MATA VAISHNODEVI SHRINE

Maa Vaishnodevi Ki Jai Ho!  JAI MATA DI!

PART I

The Holy Temple of Maa VaishnoDevi is situated at an altitude of 5200 ft and at a distance of 14 kms from the base, i.e. Katra.  One can reach the place from the nearest route being Jammu, which is at a distance of 48 kms.   It is estimated that on an average about 8 million pilgrims visit the temple every year to pay their obeisance to Mata Rani as she is fondly called.  

The belief is also true that until and unless one gets a call from her, nobody can take this trip on their own.  My mom and I had been planning this trip for quite a few years and all our attempts JUST FAILED.  I was at the fag end, ready to break down as she was my favorite Goddess, and I had always kept her close to my heart every time I faced a problematic situation in my life. She was always there as my guide.   One fine day, I still do not realize how it just clicked for my mom and me simultaneously. Sipping our morning coffee, we decided to give this trip a try and taking her name was just DIVINE! 

I sat in front of my comp ready to handle all the online requisites for the trip and as a miracle everything happened to just fall into place like a jigsaw puzzle.  I broke down once all was arranged saying, “Dhanya Ho, Maa, without your help and blessings, I am nowhere!” (Mother, you are Great!)

Mom and I took a Go Air flight to Jammu.  Reaching there at 13:45 pm was a bit tiring as it was a long flight from Bangalore- New Delhi – Srinagar – Jammu. 

From Jammu it was a rented car that we took at a nominal price and an experienced driver who was kind enough to drop us at the hotel Vandurga in Katra.  Here too I must say all security checks at the posts and highways were quick, again with the blessings of Mata Rani.  It was late evening when we reached Katra.

We had an early dinner as we decided to rest well before starting the steep trek to the main Bhavan the next morning.  I must say the hotel staff was very courteous and obliging with the necessary tips for the trek, seeing my mom’s fragile health and age at 78 years. The next morning we had a very light breakfast consisting of bread toasted with butter and a cup of hot coffee.   

We had to obtain the yatra slip from the yatra registration counter at the Tourist Reception Centre at the Katra bus stand and nowhere else. Without an authentic yatra slip, crossing of the Ban Ganga check post is not permitted.

Our hotel driver, from where we had to start the trek – dropped us at the main entrance of the temple THE DARSHINI DARWAAZA.  Saddled with a stick to keep the balance on the steep hill and a strolley with mom’s medicines and a pair of warm clothes we began the steep climb. 

We reached BANGANGA and this was the place, where the goddess shot an arrow into the ground and a spring gushed out.  BANGANGA is at an altitude of 2800 ft., and about a kilometer from the base point. Here, we had to produce the Yatri Parchi, which is mandatory.  A quick check and we took off once more, crossing the hurdles on the way with a lot of potholes, and horse shit.  We got to meet those who were returning from the Darshan with chants of JAI MATA DI, and some kindly advice on the roads ahead.   We somehow managed to go on without the slightest trace of fatigue or breathlessness, much to our surprise.   I turned to see if my mom was feeling fine, but there was a look of determination and faith in her eyes that encouraged me to climb further. 

Our next stop was at CHARAN PADUKA.  This is at a height of 3380 ft. and it is here that the imprints of the Holy Mother’s feet are believed to be imprinted on a rock slab. The reason behind paying obeisance at this place is to take Her blessings at the start of the journey.  By now the first traces of tiredness crept in, as the level of oxygen starts decreasing at higher altitudes.  Luckily, we had enough of energy drinks with us so that helped us a lot.  We were advised to cut down on the eating and keep up to the fluid levels on the entire trek.  That really was a timely advice. The only things we munched were a handful of dry fruits and nuts that helped in keeping us energetic. We trudged on accompanied by the youngsters encouraging my mom saying “Great Naani, at this age you are rocking!” Mom had a new energy boost and with full gusto she marched. 

Our next halt was at ADHKUWARI, which is at a height of 4800 ft.  Here we got to meet a lot of our Langur friends.  Here, we have the 15-foot long cave where the Goddess hid herself from the Demon Bhairon for nine months.  From here, we were advised by most yatris coming down after their Darshan to bye-pass the route by taking the new route to Bhawan.  Luckily, thanks to some miracle, we spotted an Auto battery-car that was just being reversed.  I casually asked the driver if he could help us in a lift to the Bhawan.  Voila! His words just left me speechless.  I heard him say, “ Memsaab, hum aapko niche se upar thak aapke pichha kar rahe the, ab toh bait jaayeeaye!”(Madame, I was following and observing you all the way from the base point.  At least now, please allow me to help you with a lift).  This man was following us all the way from the base and watching us to see how far we could go.  I just heaved a sigh of relief – JAI MATA DI!!  The route was just awesome with splendid scenery that reminded me of PANDORA ISLE, in the movie ‘AVATAAR’ the mountain fresh air, the mist all around us with thick forest enveloped in the choicest of greenery that one could imagine only in dreams, the chirping of birds, the sighting of the Rare Blue bird which is supposed to be a very good omen that brings us a lot of luck, the smell of fresh pine trees that was enough to make us exhilarate with a sense of purpose.  My mom could not hold back her tears nor could I at the sheer generosity of the Goddess in welcoming us to her heavenly abode.  If people say they do not believe in Miracles, I wish to remind them of the experience we just had.  I never knew what more was to come ahead!!

We managed to cover the remaining stretch of the trek till the Bhawan in about 45 minutes crossing HIMKOTI, SANJICHHAT and finally reaching the last point Bhawan, which was at an altitude of 5200 ft.  Here, the only gesture known in the local parlance as a way of saying ‘Thank you’ is JAI MATA DI!!!

I must put in a word about the local people here.  The people of Kashmir are simpletons, non-aggressive, God-fearing.  They are very friendly, extremely warm hearted and always cheerful.  What has touched me the most is that they are not touched by corruption and its evils compared to that of the urban folks in our cities.    They are self-satisfied with what they earn and what Nature has provided them with.  Innocence? yes, you could see it in their eyes that they trust just anybody and if ever we do have a conscience, we would not dare to exploit them in any way.  That would not help us in any way where the Goddess resides.  Well, here again we had a lot of security checks and once it was known that we came from a place as far as Bangalore, Wow!  We got a royal treatment from one and all.  We were made to feel at home and not in a temple. 

Entering the sanctity of the temple is blissful!   There is some sort of a spiritual aura that just cannot be described but needs to be experienced by one and all.  You get the feeling that you are being watched, your thoughts are read even if you do not have to speak it loudly.   This Holy sanctum retains an aura of mystery.   I had taken some souvenirs to be blessed by the Goddess, which I felt I need to bring back home.  The sudden turn of events left me spellbound.  The chief Priest casually asked me, if he could retain my souvenir for the Goddess.  I just could not deny what was requested, assuming it to be the wish of the Goddess herself.  I was quick to acknowledge the kind request.  I felt so blessed at that juncture!

By now, we had decided to continue our uphill trek to Bhairon Ghati.  It is at a height of 6619 ft.  It is believed that every devotee, in order to ensure completion of the pilgrimage, had to visit Bhairav Nath's temple near the Holy cave after the darshan of the Goddess.   The only way to reach this temple was either on foot or on horseback.  Here we decided to use the horse ride, as I was very sure my mom would not be able to start the trek down if she went on foot to the last point of our trek.  As again, I felt that we were blessed when a young man – PITHU, offered to help us get two horses and also carry our luggage.  We managed to cover the distance of 2 kms in about half an hour uphill.   We reached the Bhawan back in time and were scouting around for some way of getting tickets for the return to the journey back till Ardhkuwari by Auto battery car.  Looking at the snake-like queue waiting at the ticket stand made us lose all hopes of getting even a single ticket.  Perplexed I just stood there and sighed, “ Maa, please help me, my mom isn’t too co-operative to walk back on foot.”    The next moment, a middle-aged man comes towards me saying the security guard had sent him to me to offer two tickets by the Auto battery-car.  I slowly looked towards PITHU with a questioning look – “Now whose hand is in this?”  With a glint in his eager eyes, he tells me, “Didi aaj aap toh dhanya ho Gaye, Mata Rani ne aapka saath diya!” (Sister, today you are truly blessed, as Mother Goddess has supported you.”)   I just did not know how to thank her.  On my way back I had shed enough of tears just thinking how courteous Mother Goddess is, and even then there are people who are so ungrateful to her. 

We started the trek down after we were dropped to Ardhkuwri by the Auto battery car.  This trek was relaxing as we felt more at ease coming down rather than climbing up in the morning to the steep heights where oxygen was indeed very less. 

Half way down, we were a witness to a small altercation between a youth on horseback and two other local people.  As we stood there to see what was happening, the fight got really out of control and the youth on horseback was roughly pulled down from his horse and shoved mercilessly.  Mom and I were requesting the passers-by to intervene and put an end to the beatings.  Nobody rescued and even the local police were all by-standers watching the scene. Eventually, we learned that the youth on horseback was one of the yatris and whilst going up for the Darshan, he had consumed alcohol and was found eve teasing one of the other female devotees.   This is not something that is taken lightly by the local people of Kashmir in their land or territory, where women are held in high esteem.  

It must be noted that anyone venturing to take this religious trek has to bear in mind that at least a month prior to the journey, they should refrain from consumption of any alcohol drinks, Non-vegetarian foods and even foods that contain onions and garlic which is a strict taboo.  Keeping these points in mind will do a lot of good going by one’s personal experience.  So, coming back to the scenario of the youth on horseback, he earned the fruits of his lust and passion, something that is not easily forgiven or forgotten.

Well, we reached the base in a short span of four hours, and were relieved to see our hotel car-driver ready to pick us up.  Once back at our hotel, we were given a nice massage for our legs that was very much welcomed.  So, this is one trip that just cannot be forgotten easily and I am looking forward to visiting the Holy Shrine once again.   JAI MATA DI!!!

Continued in Part II.