JANNAT - HEAVEN ON EARTH

 ‘JANNAT’ – HEAVEN ON EARTH

Dear Readers, before reading this blog I would request you to first go through Part I of my blog. The link is: www.pratima-myperspective.blogspot.com

Well, we took a day’s rest after the hectic trek to the Holy Shrine.  Both my mom and I were fagged out to even think of going for the local sight seeing at Katra.  So, we decided to keep the visit for the next visit shortly.   I have a soft corner for animals, and it does not matter to me if they are the wild species or the domesticated ones.  So here, at the Vandurga hotel, I fell in love with the canine, a German shepherd breed named ‘SHEROO’.   What a romantic name! And my dear friend was as handsome as ever. A heavily built canine with fluffy long hair to his mane of black and gold color. And you bet he had a royal living compared to other dogs.  A fairly huge shed with an overhead fan always on the run to keep his cool and when I pointed out to him, he was raising his head as proud as a peacock, as if destined to say, “I deserve it!”

Leaving him behind was really sad, but I did it with enough courage only to assure him that I was coming back pretty soon in the near future. 

We started the next morning as early as 05:00 am in a hired cab to Jammu and then on to Srinagar in a shared cab.  Rented cabs are easily available in Katra for a nominal price and its safe for even ladies to travel alone without male companions, as the cab drivers are trustworthy and reliable.  We reached Jammu quite early, around 06:30 am.  Soon we got into a cab – A TATA SUMO, which was shared by a few male companions who were also heading towards Srinagar.  The owner of the cab was still in need of three passengers as the capacity was for seven passengers.  We waited and finally two ladies got in, an old lady and her daughter.   Since the quota was not fulfilled with the requirement of another passenger, we were losing time, and it was decided to start immediately. Our driver was a Kashmiri Muslim and a real cartoon in the making, which we realized as the journey, progressed.

Looking at my mom and me, he guessed we were from India, and he was exhibiting his overly ‘Mehemaan Niwazi Khatirdaari’ (treating the guest with Kindness).   My mom had this weakness or should I say the fear from all the crazy stories she heard about the Muslims in POK and in Kashmir. So, this overly affectionate behavior from the driver only worsened her fears, and more so when things began on a crazy note.  Be prepared to sit back and laugh.  Fasten your seat belts, please; we are ready to take off!!!

We were seated in the middle seat of the ‘TATA SUMO’ at the start of the journey, waiting for other passengers to be seated.  This joker of a driver comes up to us and says, “Please come and sit in the front seat with me!”  I, like a real bloke, thought may be he was having some good reason for it, so I agreed.  Seeing me change the seat the owner of the cab stopped me and asked as to why I was changing my seat.  I passed on what the driver had told. He then questioned him.  The reply he gave was something where I just could not control my laughter.  He said, if the ladies did not come into the front seat, the car would not start.  Sensing his mood, the cab owner, made a real comical face in disgust and anger, saying, “I’ll show you how to start the car!”  By now, my mom was a shriveled kitten, giving me a pathetic look as to say, “Are you sure, you want to take this cab?” I was in for some real good adventure and I nodded. 

Well we started by around 07:30 am.  I had requested the two ladies to sit in the middle seat as the mother was quite old and it was appreciated.  Mom and I sat at the rear seat with the cab driver looking off and on at the rear view mirror cursing under his breath on the change of our seats.   I was busy making a note in my book on the passing scenes, the army squad all along NH1-A. 

We reached Udhampur for tea break at 10:30 am.  The roads are fairly good with sharp inclines and hairpin bends. These are well maintained by the Border Roads Organization (BRO). We got to see a few interesting places like Jajjar Kotli, Kud, Patnitop, Batote, Ramban, Bannihal, and Qazi Gund etc.  I shall be telling you a bit of all these places as I proceed along. 

At Kud we stopped to taste a few of the delicious sweets called PATISTA that Kashmir is famous for.  This place comes on the Udhampur Srinagar Highway.  

Our driver was again too pleased to buy us the sweets and we did not want to hurt him.  My mom and the lady in front were just too eager to dissuade me from taking anything from the driver.  See, what happens next, they warned.  I was laughing under my breath!  

I could not resist the Kashmir apples on the way.  Seeing so many of them on the trees and within easy reach of plucking, I asked if I could have some of them? The driver again rushed to my rescue, “Don’t ever think of such a thing! If you fall you shall go deep down into the valley and no one will find you.”  So, my idea of eating apples was laid to rest. ‘R.I.P’.

We began driving further and entered Patnitop where I got to see a lot of Pine trees.  Here, the climate cooled a bit, compared to the other places, which we crossed where I found the heat unbearable.

Next, we headed to Batote.  This is such a beautiful place, really breath taking.  There were pine trees that were majestically tall enough to dwarf the sight of the beautiful hills and mountains.  

We came across the Gamma Unit – J9 and got to see a lot of army soldiers in trucks patrolling the areas.  The army soldiers looked real tough and deeply concerned about our welfare as they normally do with all tourists.  Here again, my urge to relish the luscious red apples went down the drain.  They are irresistible.   After this we headed towards the Nashri viewpoint.  Here the construction of the Chenani-Nashri tunnel was being done that connects Srinagar with the rest of the country.  I believe that most people were looking forward to it, as the distance is reduced by a few 30 kms, which helps in saving the journey in just about five hours. We proceeded on the road from Champa.  Here, a road sign caught my eye – “If married, DIVORCE SPEED!”  

In fact there are a lot of interesting Road signs all along the way, which kept us interested.  Another sign brought a strong feeling of patriotism in all of us – “KASHMIR TO KANYKUMARI, INDIA IS ONE.”   We crossed the KUMFER Bridge or the old Srinagar Bridge under which flows the muddy Jhelum River through the old town of Srinagar. 

Next, we came across Rambhan.  The area looked a bit too sensitive so our driver just happened to press on to the accelerator.   For a few moments, we did not know what was happening. As we slowed down a few kms after, a young man asking for a lift stopped us.  He was headed towards Srinagar.  The driver just accepted his entry.  Everyone all of a sudden met his entry with a hushed silence, as he looked at all the occupants in the cab with a curious look.  My mom started getting the jitters now, as she always was the first to come to conclusions.  He politely asked us from where we had come.  The moment he heard Bangalore, he was all attention towards us, forgetting the others in the cab.  I shall never forget his Pathani outfit that he wore, his well-shaped beard and the surma-laden eyes that were piercing.  Yet, he reminded me of some Moghul Prince without his sword.  He looked very majestic.  My mom for the next few hours dared not open her mouth as she was convinced something was going to happen. 

I wanted to break the icy atmosphere so I decided to start a conversation.  I opened my food hamper and called out aloud, “Anyone hungry here?”  There was deathly silence.  Going by my guts and presence of mind I opened a pack of snacks and passed it on saying, “These sweets are specially home made.  Would you like to taste them?  They are from India.  Slowly heads turned and the pack was passed on.  I watched everyone take a bite with the eagerness of the school kids on a picnic. Food was shared amidst the slow entry of laughter and jokes. 

As we were immersed in this amiable conversation all of a sudden darkness engulfed us.  It was unending.  I came to know later that we were in a long tunnel having a length of 2500mts that was maintained by BRO of the Indian army and guarded by the CRPF, which also monitors it by CCTVS, as it is vital for Kashmir Valley.  It is the only tunnel that connects Kashmir to the rest of the country, known as JAWAHAR TUNNEL.

After this, some of the passengers suggested we stop at the nearest tea stall as we had entered Anantnag.  I found a lot of stalls selling Cricket bats.  We stopped to refresh ourselves at the rest room of a fairly good hotel while all the male passengers sipped their tea.  Having refreshed ourselves, we got into the cab, waiting for the others to settle in.  Soon all returned and as we started the journey once again, the driver asked us ladies why we refrained from having tea and if he could help us get each a cup.  My mom was quick to reply without batting an eyelid – “ Hum sab Thande Thande hain, Aap jaise Garam Garam Nahin Hain.” (We are all cold people, unlike you who are so HOT!”) The next moment resulted in a sudden burst of laughter, as everyone thought my mom at the ripe old age of 78 years was indeed being very very sexy. Nobody could stop laughing and ultimately the nervous driver had to stop the car with the squeal of the brakes. “ Aap ne abhi abhi kya farmaye?”  (What is it that you just told?)  I was holding my head in my hands, and with my face down hissing under my breath, “Mom, will you just Shut up?” Even the new entrant from Rambhan was staring at both of us.  His look gave us a lot of explanation – “ Uh Huhn, so this is how Indians think about drinking tea?”  I diverted the attention, saying,  “Are yaar, jaldi chaliye, dher ho rahi hai, humein sham hone se pehele pahunchni hai.” (C’mon you guys, get started, we need to reach before it’s too late in the evening.”) The driver was trying his best to focus his look at us in the rear view mirror, but I just kept avoiding his look for any further problem.

We got to see a lot of Chinar trees on the way that reminded us we are closing in on Srinagar. We crossed the Islamic International School and then on to BIJBEHARA, the local Market Area.  This place is also known as “VETH.”  I believe it is one of the well-known and notable towns of the district. This little town is filled with Chinar trees and is popularly called “The Town of Chinars.”  The story goes that Mughal emperors from Iran to enhance the beauty of the town imported the Chinar trees. 

From there we proceeded on to AWANTIPORA.   This place is situated midway between Anantnag and Srinagar city on National Highway 1A. Here there are a lot of Hindu temples built by King Awanti Varman when he chose the site as a capital.  There is the Indian Air Force Station near this place at Koil, which is about 5 km from Pulwama town.  From here we picked up Speed and stopped at a Market place where our dear friend from Rambhan alighted.  As he got out, he held the door wide open and beckoned us to come out. Surprised we were wondering what he was up to.  With a genuine smile on his face, he welcomes us and says,

“ Chaliye, Ghar Aa gaya. Aap hamare saath Nahi aayenge?

I replied: “Kahan ji?”

Is Kinaare Par aap ka desh hai, aur Us Kinaare hamaara desh hai.

(Come on, won’t you come home with me?

Where to?

On this side is your country and my country lies on the other side)

I guess readers you might have understood what he actually meant.  I do not have to spell it out.   I politely replied, that I would definitely come the next time, and thanked him for the kind invitation to his country. He was just too pleased to have our company for the short span of time.  I was glad he had a lot  to talk about us to his folks back home, in the same manner that we have to narrate on the cross-country relations. 

We reached Srinagar and a little into the town, our lady companions got down.  We wished them luck and hoped to meet them soon.  They were feeling a bit sad that in such a short span of time, we got to know each other yet something to remember.  One by one all the occupants alighted at their respective stops and we were the last ones to get out.  Our driver was instructed to keep us safely in the cab by our Hotel owner, Mr. Sarwar, until he came to pick us up.

It was a good experience knowing and meeting people across the borders.  I wanted my mom to get over her dis-illusionment about the people across the borders of our country.  They are as humane as us and I believe that most of the mis-understandings come with wrong information about the people, their government and their life-style.  Readers, if you have the chance, try and go personally to meet these people to keep all your doubts at rest.   I am saddened at the sheer poverty stricken people.  We here in India are much better off than those people who are forever living in fear at the slightest sound of an explosion.  The war-torn areas are not healthy for the innocent children to grow up in such an atmosphere. I can see the fear in their eyes that is the naked truth! 

Well we reached our Hotel – Hotel JH BaZaZ.  This is a cozy cottage and I assure you anyone can fall in love with this place.  It is a bit in the interior, an area close to the Dal Lake.  We were well looked after by the owners, a joint team of father and son who are as humble and generous as ever.  They take a personal interest in each guest, making sure that you are really comfortable and looking after all your needs and wants.   Mr. Sarwar helped with a quick list of the most important things to see and do in Srinagar as I had left the itinerary plan with him. We decided to rest for the evening and start the next morning.

Our first trip was a Shikara ride around the famous Dal Lake, where we got to see the Floating Garden and the Market.  We were also shown the Char Chinar on the way.

Our next stop was at the famous Moghul Gardens, then the Chashmeshahi, the Nishat and Shalimar Gardens.   I was very particular about visiting Pir Baba’s Mosque - The Hazratbal Shrine, the beauty that somehow seemed to captivate me.

Breakfast was at one of the local hotels.  I saw the hotelier  pouring dosas and thought of giving this a try.  A dosa in Kashmir?   Believe me when I say it was so delicious.  I was ecstatic that Kashmiris had mastered the culinary skills even from South India.  The Dosas were paper crisp and the chutney was yummy the way we cook at home.  The cook was just pleased to see us having it. I could not help praising him. 

We had an efficient driver called Riaz who also helped in being our guide.  He was good at any information we wanted from the tourist point of view.  All along he kept a continuous verbal discussion on each place of interest, which we appreciated.  The end of the day we did a bit of shopping for Souvenirs and my ever-crazy Kashmiri apples.  How could I forget my darling red apples?

Leaving Kashmir was a sorrow deep in our hearts.  It is not just a place that you can forget that easily.  This is my second visit after 35 years.  The last visit was on a school trip, somewhat similar to a cultural exchange trip and I remember I topped my batch on the thesis about Kashmir and its people.  Even today I have nostalgic memories of that era.

Kashmiris are very loving people.  They are very warm hearted and always friendly.  It’s wrong to conclude about people without knowing the facts. The news we hear is sheer bullshit.  I must put it in writing that one must see for themselves the truth of this heavenly place before making any stupid assumptions.  I hope I get to see this place once again very very soon. 

THANK YOU, KASHMIR FOR YOUR WARMTH AND GENEROSITY.

My Trip to Mata VaishnoDevi Shrine

MY TRIP TO MATA VAISHNODEVI SHRINE

Maa Vaishnodevi Ki Jai Ho!  JAI MATA DI!

PART I

The Holy Temple of Maa VaishnoDevi is situated at an altitude of 5200 ft and at a distance of 14 kms from the base, i.e. Katra.  One can reach the place from the nearest route being Jammu, which is at a distance of 48 kms.   It is estimated that on an average about 8 million pilgrims visit the temple every year to pay their obeisance to Mata Rani as she is fondly called.  

The belief is also true that until and unless one gets a call from her, nobody can take this trip on their own.  My mom and I had been planning this trip for quite a few years and all our attempts JUST FAILED.  I was at the fag end, ready to break down as she was my favorite Goddess, and I had always kept her close to my heart every time I faced a problematic situation in my life. She was always there as my guide.   One fine day, I still do not realize how it just clicked for my mom and me simultaneously. Sipping our morning coffee, we decided to give this trip a try and taking her name was just DIVINE! 

I sat in front of my comp ready to handle all the online requisites for the trip and as a miracle everything happened to just fall into place like a jigsaw puzzle.  I broke down once all was arranged saying, “Dhanya Ho, Maa, without your help and blessings, I am nowhere!” (Mother, you are Great!)

Mom and I took a Go Air flight to Jammu.  Reaching there at 13:45 pm was a bit tiring as it was a long flight from Bangalore- New Delhi – Srinagar – Jammu. 

From Jammu it was a rented car that we took at a nominal price and an experienced driver who was kind enough to drop us at the hotel Vandurga in Katra.  Here too I must say all security checks at the posts and highways were quick, again with the blessings of Mata Rani.  It was late evening when we reached Katra.

We had an early dinner as we decided to rest well before starting the steep trek to the main Bhavan the next morning.  I must say the hotel staff was very courteous and obliging with the necessary tips for the trek, seeing my mom’s fragile health and age at 78 years. The next morning we had a very light breakfast consisting of bread toasted with butter and a cup of hot coffee.   

We had to obtain the yatra slip from the yatra registration counter at the Tourist Reception Centre at the Katra bus stand and nowhere else. Without an authentic yatra slip, crossing of the Ban Ganga check post is not permitted.

Our hotel driver, from where we had to start the trek – dropped us at the main entrance of the temple THE DARSHINI DARWAAZA.  Saddled with a stick to keep the balance on the steep hill and a strolley with mom’s medicines and a pair of warm clothes we began the steep climb. 

We reached BANGANGA and this was the place, where the goddess shot an arrow into the ground and a spring gushed out.  BANGANGA is at an altitude of 2800 ft., and about a kilometer from the base point. Here, we had to produce the Yatri Parchi, which is mandatory.  A quick check and we took off once more, crossing the hurdles on the way with a lot of potholes, and horse shit.  We got to meet those who were returning from the Darshan with chants of JAI MATA DI, and some kindly advice on the roads ahead.   We somehow managed to go on without the slightest trace of fatigue or breathlessness, much to our surprise.   I turned to see if my mom was feeling fine, but there was a look of determination and faith in her eyes that encouraged me to climb further. 

Our next stop was at CHARAN PADUKA.  This is at a height of 3380 ft. and it is here that the imprints of the Holy Mother’s feet are believed to be imprinted on a rock slab. The reason behind paying obeisance at this place is to take Her blessings at the start of the journey.  By now the first traces of tiredness crept in, as the level of oxygen starts decreasing at higher altitudes.  Luckily, we had enough of energy drinks with us so that helped us a lot.  We were advised to cut down on the eating and keep up to the fluid levels on the entire trek.  That really was a timely advice. The only things we munched were a handful of dry fruits and nuts that helped in keeping us energetic. We trudged on accompanied by the youngsters encouraging my mom saying “Great Naani, at this age you are rocking!” Mom had a new energy boost and with full gusto she marched. 

Our next halt was at ADHKUWARI, which is at a height of 4800 ft.  Here we got to meet a lot of our Langur friends.  Here, we have the 15-foot long cave where the Goddess hid herself from the Demon Bhairon for nine months.  From here, we were advised by most yatris coming down after their Darshan to bye-pass the route by taking the new route to Bhawan.  Luckily, thanks to some miracle, we spotted an Auto battery-car that was just being reversed.  I casually asked the driver if he could help us in a lift to the Bhawan.  Voila! His words just left me speechless.  I heard him say, “ Memsaab, hum aapko niche se upar thak aapke pichha kar rahe the, ab toh bait jaayeeaye!”(Madame, I was following and observing you all the way from the base point.  At least now, please allow me to help you with a lift).  This man was following us all the way from the base and watching us to see how far we could go.  I just heaved a sigh of relief – JAI MATA DI!!  The route was just awesome with splendid scenery that reminded me of PANDORA ISLE, in the movie ‘AVATAAR’ the mountain fresh air, the mist all around us with thick forest enveloped in the choicest of greenery that one could imagine only in dreams, the chirping of birds, the sighting of the Rare Blue bird which is supposed to be a very good omen that brings us a lot of luck, the smell of fresh pine trees that was enough to make us exhilarate with a sense of purpose.  My mom could not hold back her tears nor could I at the sheer generosity of the Goddess in welcoming us to her heavenly abode.  If people say they do not believe in Miracles, I wish to remind them of the experience we just had.  I never knew what more was to come ahead!!

We managed to cover the remaining stretch of the trek till the Bhawan in about 45 minutes crossing HIMKOTI, SANJICHHAT and finally reaching the last point Bhawan, which was at an altitude of 5200 ft.  Here, the only gesture known in the local parlance as a way of saying ‘Thank you’ is JAI MATA DI!!!

I must put in a word about the local people here.  The people of Kashmir are simpletons, non-aggressive, God-fearing.  They are very friendly, extremely warm hearted and always cheerful.  What has touched me the most is that they are not touched by corruption and its evils compared to that of the urban folks in our cities.    They are self-satisfied with what they earn and what Nature has provided them with.  Innocence? yes, you could see it in their eyes that they trust just anybody and if ever we do have a conscience, we would not dare to exploit them in any way.  That would not help us in any way where the Goddess resides.  Well, here again we had a lot of security checks and once it was known that we came from a place as far as Bangalore, Wow!  We got a royal treatment from one and all.  We were made to feel at home and not in a temple. 

Entering the sanctity of the temple is blissful!   There is some sort of a spiritual aura that just cannot be described but needs to be experienced by one and all.  You get the feeling that you are being watched, your thoughts are read even if you do not have to speak it loudly.   This Holy sanctum retains an aura of mystery.   I had taken some souvenirs to be blessed by the Goddess, which I felt I need to bring back home.  The sudden turn of events left me spellbound.  The chief Priest casually asked me, if he could retain my souvenir for the Goddess.  I just could not deny what was requested, assuming it to be the wish of the Goddess herself.  I was quick to acknowledge the kind request.  I felt so blessed at that juncture!

By now, we had decided to continue our uphill trek to Bhairon Ghati.  It is at a height of 6619 ft.  It is believed that every devotee, in order to ensure completion of the pilgrimage, had to visit Bhairav Nath's temple near the Holy cave after the darshan of the Goddess.   The only way to reach this temple was either on foot or on horseback.  Here we decided to use the horse ride, as I was very sure my mom would not be able to start the trek down if she went on foot to the last point of our trek.  As again, I felt that we were blessed when a young man – PITHU, offered to help us get two horses and also carry our luggage.  We managed to cover the distance of 2 kms in about half an hour uphill.   We reached the Bhawan back in time and were scouting around for some way of getting tickets for the return to the journey back till Ardhkuwari by Auto battery car.  Looking at the snake-like queue waiting at the ticket stand made us lose all hopes of getting even a single ticket.  Perplexed I just stood there and sighed, “ Maa, please help me, my mom isn’t too co-operative to walk back on foot.”    The next moment, a middle-aged man comes towards me saying the security guard had sent him to me to offer two tickets by the Auto battery-car.  I slowly looked towards PITHU with a questioning look – “Now whose hand is in this?”  With a glint in his eager eyes, he tells me, “Didi aaj aap toh dhanya ho Gaye, Mata Rani ne aapka saath diya!” (Sister, today you are truly blessed, as Mother Goddess has supported you.”)   I just did not know how to thank her.  On my way back I had shed enough of tears just thinking how courteous Mother Goddess is, and even then there are people who are so ungrateful to her. 

We started the trek down after we were dropped to Ardhkuwri by the Auto battery car.  This trek was relaxing as we felt more at ease coming down rather than climbing up in the morning to the steep heights where oxygen was indeed very less. 

Half way down, we were a witness to a small altercation between a youth on horseback and two other local people.  As we stood there to see what was happening, the fight got really out of control and the youth on horseback was roughly pulled down from his horse and shoved mercilessly.  Mom and I were requesting the passers-by to intervene and put an end to the beatings.  Nobody rescued and even the local police were all by-standers watching the scene. Eventually, we learned that the youth on horseback was one of the yatris and whilst going up for the Darshan, he had consumed alcohol and was found eve teasing one of the other female devotees.   This is not something that is taken lightly by the local people of Kashmir in their land or territory, where women are held in high esteem.  

It must be noted that anyone venturing to take this religious trek has to bear in mind that at least a month prior to the journey, they should refrain from consumption of any alcohol drinks, Non-vegetarian foods and even foods that contain onions and garlic which is a strict taboo.  Keeping these points in mind will do a lot of good going by one’s personal experience.  So, coming back to the scenario of the youth on horseback, he earned the fruits of his lust and passion, something that is not easily forgiven or forgotten.

Well, we reached the base in a short span of four hours, and were relieved to see our hotel car-driver ready to pick us up.  Once back at our hotel, we were given a nice massage for our legs that was very much welcomed.  So, this is one trip that just cannot be forgotten easily and I am looking forward to visiting the Holy Shrine once again.   JAI MATA DI!!!

Continued in Part II.